to op:I have a masonry project that I wanted to hire out. It involves (1) filling some missing mortar around garage foundation and (2) a patch job to level off the garage floor so that the overhead garage door would sit flush against threshold. Masons have come and gone and made the following suggestions:
- replace the entire garage floor. $8000 and up. (not a need, just a suggestion due to some pitting of the concrete slab)
- replace half the garage floor - about $4000 +
- patch it for $1200. It's about a 2 foot garage floor threshold area that needs to level up at it's deepest about 1" to 1.5" so that the overhead garage door when closed will sit flush with the floor. If we go with a patch, just in that one section of the garage, we are a bit concerned about aesthetics and how it will look in relation to the driveway.
- $500 for using stucco to fill in any missing mortar around garage cinder block foundation. There is no stucco on the foundation, there is just a few places where mortar is missing.
- Could use Quikrete Zip 'n Mix Repair Mortar - it works for a couple of years and then needs to be replaced. We can do this now. The cost and time is minimal and it doesn't affect the aesthetics of threshold / driveway.
Questions:
1)Wouldn't mortar be a better choice than stucco for the mortar that is missing around the foundation?
2) If we do get the driveway replaced which is down the road and not needed in the moment, does one replace the driveway before the garage threshold or after? Or doesn't it matter?
3) It is late in the year and some of the masons aren't available until December. We live in the Northeast and are concerned we will get quality work if it turns cold? Is this an issue?
4) What would you do? Are they any suggestions from folks wiser than myself on this type of project?
edited 8/20/24 for clarity.
1 option of a zillion:
1 concrete coring company cuts a neat line 32 inches wide with the 16 inches center where the garage door threshold lands.
Take out 2-3 inches or more of the existing slab so that at a minimum, you will have 4 inches total embedded at the taper point.
You make a smooth nice "speed bump". Height tapers down to match the garage door base.
The disadvantage is that usually garage slabs have a very slight slope in the pour so that any water in the garage flows out the door. If the "speed bump" interferes with drainage, there's that.
Patching doesn't work for long when poured so thin and adheres very poorly even with adhesives, etc in the mix. Qickrete falls apart when used as a topping coat and driven over. Garage slabs are power trowelled so there's a 1/8 inch sheen tempered finish of pure concrete and sand on the surface and over 20 years is granite hard. Things don't stick to it at all.
TRhat's why the "speedbump" is cut into the slab at the end of the taper, so it's not a blend of thick to thin to the existing grade. The edge is actually 3-4 inches thick inside the existing slab.
The existing slab can be drilled for rebar dowels after the coring company and before a pour. Also concrete wire. Coat the existing slab with concrete glue just before the pour. Use "fibercrete admix" to also prevent cracking and fissures, spiderwebs, etc.
as for when you mention "stucco" and "mortar", it's confusing without a picture. So, don't know about that topic.
just some ideas.
j
Statistics: Posted by Sandtrap — Tue Aug 20, 2024 1:58 pm — Replies 7 — Views 310